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Broad Peak

Broad Peak Pakistan Explorer

Broad Peak Summer Expedition

*(Note: Customized itinerary can be provided for Winter Expedition)

Locally named as Faichan Kangri and although the name is sometimes disputed among the local Baltis, Broad Peak stands at an altitude of 8,047m above sea level making it the 12th highest mountain on earth. Part of the Gasherbrum Massif, Broad Peak is about 8kms away from K2 and neighbors three 8000ers along the Baltoro Glacier. The base of the mountain is about 1.5kms long thereby getting it the name Broad Peak.

First attempt to scale the mountain was made in the year 1954 by the Germans led by Dr. Karl Herligkoffer, primarily because the region was ruled by various princely states and was technically out of the control of the British Empire, thus giving Germans a chance to penetrate the precarious Karakorums. The attempt was made via the SW side but failed due to extreme conditions.

First successful attempt was made in the year 1957 by German-Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck and included climbing legends of the likes of Hermann Buhl (First successful summit of Nanga Parbat), Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger (first ever successful climb of two 8000ers).

Broad Peak was scaled for the first time in winters in 2013 by a sturdy Polish team led by Krzysztof Wielicki and included Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek. Sadly, Berbeka and Kowalski lost their way during the descent and their bodies were never found.

Broad Peak is essentially a mix climbing affair and the West Face of the mountain offers the easiest way to the top often taken up by most of the climbing expeditions vying to scale the mountain. This route was also partially taken up by the first successful expedition all the way to 7000m.

Quick Facts:

Elevation: 8,047 m

Prominence‎: ‎ 1,701 m (5,581 ft)

First ascent: June 8th, 1957

First ascenders: Fritz Wintersteller, Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck

Coordinates: 35°48′42″N 76°33′54″E

Expedition duration: 50 days
Route (by Road): ISB-CHILAS-SKD-ASKOLE-CNCRD-ASKOLE-SKD-CHILAS-ISB

Route (by Air): ISB-SKD-ASKOLE-CNCRD-ASKOLE-SKD-ISB

Ideal Time: Mid June to End August

Royalty Fee: USD9500 (for a 7-member Expedition) with USD3000 for every extra member exceeding 7-member expedition (refer to clause 48 of Rules and Regulations of GBCouncil)

Joint Expedition: Joint expeditions with 50% strength of Pakistani climbers including the                                               expedition leader shall get a 50% discount on Royalty Fee

Timeline: Interested expeditions must apply at least three months before the start of                                                   expedition in order to facilitate the Tour Operator to carry out the necessary paperwork    and permissions

Itinerary:

Day -1

  • Arrival in Islamabad
  • Airport Transfer
  • Overnight stay in Islamabad (3-star)

Day-2

  • Free Day in Islamabad
  • Overnight Stay in Islamabad (3-star)

Day-3

  • Airport Transfer Flight to Skardu (optional/flight cancellation travel by road to Skardu via Chilas 24hrs journey)
  • Hotel Check-in (3-star)
  • Overnight Stay in Skardu

Day -4

  • Briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan
  • Sopping/Grocery/supplies/NOC’s/Misc Arrangements
  • Overnight in Hotel (3-star)

Day -5

(Skardu to Askoli)

  • 4 x 4 Jeeps
  • Night in camps
  • Max Altitude Gain: 3050m ASL
  • Travel duration: 7-8 hours

Day-6
            (Askole- Jhola)

  • Night in camps
  • Max Altitude Gain: 3220m ASL
  • Trek duration: 7-8 hours

Day- 7
            (Jhola-Paiyu)

  • Night in camps
  • Max Altitude Gain: 3400m ASL
  • Trek duration: 8-9 hours

Day- 8

            (Paiyu-Khoburse)

  • Night in camps
  • Max Altitude Gain: 3800m ASL
  • Trek duration: 8-9 hours

Day- 9

(Khoburse to Goro-1)

  • Night in camps
  • Max Altitude Gain: 4200m ASL
  • Trek duration: 8-9 hours

Day- 10
            (Goro-1 to Broad Peak Base Camp)

  • Overnight in tents
  • Max Altitude Gain: 5400m ASL
  • Trek duration: 10-12 hours

Day- 11-41

            (Designated 30 days for Acclimatization and Climbing)

Day- 42-47

               (05 days trekking back via Askoli or Gondogoro La/optional)

Day- 48
            (Askoli/Hushe to Skardu)

  • Askoli/Hushe-SKD via 4 x 4 Jeeps
  • Night in Hotel (3-star)
  • Duration: 6-7 hours

Day- 49
            (SKD-ISB)

  • De-briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan
  • Airport Transfer
  • Flight to Islamabad (optional/flight cancellation travel by road to Skardu via Chilas 24hrs journey)
  • Overnight stay in Islamabad (3-star)

Day- 50

  • Fly Out

Terms & Conditions:

Services/Cost Includes:

  1. All necessary paper work including;
  2. Facilitation in getting Climbing Permit
  3. Visa Invitation Letter
  4. Facilitation in Payment of royalty fee and peak allocation before arrival
  5. Coordination with Ministry of Tourism
  6. Briefing/debriefing with Alpine Club of Pakistan
  7. Facilitation in Import/Export of Cargo and its storage
  8. Insurance for Porters
  9. Equipment/rations/insurance for Liason Officer      
  10. All meals Breakfast/lunch/dinner throughout the expedition
    1. Breakfast (Continental)
    1. Lunch (2-course Continental/Desi)
    1. Dinner (2-course Continental/Desi)
  11. Air-conditioned luxury Coaster (All road Travels)
  12. 4×4 Jeeps (willeys, Toyota FJ40 etc)
  13. All hotel accommodation (double/triple sharing)
  14. All camping (double/triple sharing Dome Tents)
  15. On-board snacks and drinks (ice box) during long travels
  16. Porterage of up to 50kgs per expedition member (extra weight will be carried on extra charges)
  17. Mattresses
  18. Kitchen utensils with crockery, cutlery etc
  19. Kerosene stove with kerosene
  20. Mess Tent
  21. Toilet Tents and toiletries
  22. Mess Table and chairs
  23. Generator with fuel
  24. Supplies groceries including fruits, vegetables, meat etc
  25. Porters/cooks/helpers
  26. Licensed Tour Guide
  27. Rations for porters
  28. High Altitude Porters (HAPs) and climbers for crossing GGLA
  29. Basic First aid
  30. Toll taxes/GGLA crossing charges/ NOC/Camping fee/Environment fee/ Permits other taxes
  31. All transportation from and to Islamabad Airport
  32. Satellite phone for incoming & outgoing on payment

Services not included:

  • Air tickets  (International)
  • Visa fee
  • Deposit for Heli Rescue
  • LO daily allowance/equipment (if any)/insurance
  • Travel Insurance
  • Personal clothing
  • Extra refreshments apart from itinerary
  • Laundry
  • Rescue/evacuation

Pakistan Explorer is a registered Travel company bearing National Taxation Number (NTN: 7187922-0) and is registered with Ministry of Tourism, Department of Tourist Services (DTS: 2117) providing complete assistance to tourist and climbing expeditions from across the world.